Sunday, October 4, 2015

A Tidal Wave of New Additions


Summer is over, and Fall is going to be busier than ever.  Kids are going back to school. Parents have added new puppies to their families.  We'd like to give a warm welcome to the newest four-legged additions to the Bright Star Pet Services family.  


Our "big dogs," pictured above, include Tara, Roscoe, Daisy, Diesel and Toby.
Pictured below we have Lady and Gizmo, Stanley and Jillian (both will qualify as a big dog when they are full grown), Vinny, Zsa Zsa and Dudley, and little Scooter.


Of course we can't forget the littlest puppies:  two Golden Retrievers, from different litters, but they almost look like twins!  These are Bleu (on the left) and Gee-O (on the right).


With so many wonderful additions, it should be no surprise that we also needed to hire a couple of dedicated animal-lovers to help with pet sits and dog walks.  We found the perfect combination of experience, integrity, and enthusiasm with our newest employees, Nick Russo and Judy Stettner.



Nick has been a lifetime animal lover, but went a more practical route early in life, earning  a Bachelor’s degree in Accounting from DePaul University.  For several years he worked in the service field, utilizing his attention to detail and his compassionate nature to help resolve customer issues.  He was born and raised in the Chicago area (Northwest side), but has lived in Lake in the Hills for the past 17 years.  Now he is finally getting the chance to do what he loves: working with pets and helping their owners! He has a natural connection with both dogs and cats, having lived with them his whole life.  He enjoys watching silly puppy and kitten antics, and is deeply dedicated to the needs of our senior pets.  One of his dogs, Millie, died last year, but he still has Lucy—who he adopted from Animal House Shelter in Huntley—and two cats named Jackson and Miles.  In the picture above, Scooter is snuggling up to him.


Judy Stettner comes to Bright Star with 8 years experience as a veterinary assistant and technician and a lifetime of experience with dogs, cats and small animals. Her family includes her husband and two wonderful teenagers. Completing the family are Betsy, the cat, Billy and Bubbles, the goldfish. The newest family member, Ellie, was recently adopted from Animal House shelter in Huntley and is a lab/border collie puppy. Judy gets to fill two roles: she will be assisting with scheduling and office administration, as well as taking on some of our newer clients in north Crystal Lake.

As a reminder, all our employees pass a rigorous background check, must be insured and bonded through Pet Sitters Associates, and are required to become certified in pet first aid and CPR.  In addition, they go through extensive training with Jessica before they can complete any visits on their own.  They are professionals in every sense of the word.

If there are any questions or concerns-- please contact us, and we will be happy to help in any way we can.  We hope you are enjoying this lovely, cool fall weather with your furry friends!

Sunday, June 21, 2015

Wanted: Serious Pet Lovers!

Catching Up on All the News
Smokey the cat says,
"Stay informed!"

It has been a crazy, busy winter and spring for us.  I hope you'll allow me a few minutes to fill you in on some exciting and important changes with Bright Star Pet Services, starting with this:  
We are...

Looking for New Customers

If you've been driving around Crystal Lake or Lake in the Hills lately, you might have seen the new signs on my car:
Eby Graphics did a fantastic job with the wrap on my car!
     
    It is hard to miss the bright red, orange, and yellow that announce Bright Star Pet Services.


    This year we are ready to grow and take care of new customers. I have added mobile advertising on my vehicle to help spread the word.  A huge "Thank You" to Matt Eby of Eby Graphics in Crystal Lake, who designed this amazing car wrap for us!

Safety and Security

     Some people might be worried about their home safety if a car pulls into their driveway that could be perceived to say, "Nobody is home." Obviously, we don't want you to worry about the safety of your home and your pets, nor do we want to risk walking into a home being burglarized!  For this reason, when you see this car, it will be parked on the street, some distance away from client homes.  We also have a completely unmarked car which can be used as well.

     I don't know if burglars read car signs, but ours announces "Dog Training" and "Dog Walking"-- did you know we also do that?  So even if they see the car in your neighborhood, they won't know which house, and if that house has a big, scary guard dog in training, or  some other kinds of pets.

Spread the Word and Save 

Customer referrals are one of the best ways for us to get new business.  I'll bet you know some serious pet lovers in your circle of friends and family.  We greatly appreciate any customer referrals, and we'd like to thank you for your trust and support.   For each referred household that books a visit through us, you will earn a $20 credit for your next pet sitting, dog walking, or dog training service! They just need to tell us who referred them.

Other Exciting News:  Employees and More

For nearly three years, I worked this business almost completely solo.  In February, when my backup pet sitter decided to quit her business for a corporate job, I realized I needed to hire help. It took a long time to get all the pieces together and find the perfect sitter for your very important pets! More than just a person who loves animals, it had to be someone with dedication, passion and commitment to work with pets and their owners every day. I wanted someone interested in furthering their education about animal behavior, with excellent communication skills, and a willingness to go the extra mile for you. They had to be tested with my own large, loud, and crazy dogs.  They had to be willing to learn each customer's routine to our exacting standards, added to my business insurance, and willing to learn pet first aid and CPR.  After finding a few good candidates, checking credentials, and running extensive background checks, I am pleased to announce our new employee!

Anita has earned paws of approval
from my Giant schnauzers, Atlas and Phoebe!
Anita T. is a pet sitter extraordinaire, having had a variety of experiences in all kinds of pet care and an eagerness to learn more about animal psychology and behavior.  She has been training with me for two weeks now, and she is outstanding with pets of all kinds!  She will be taking on many of the dog walking and pet sitting visits, and will be learning the care for each customer's pets under my watchful instruction.

A short biography on Anita:  She grew up in Northwest Chicago, and for most of her life has owned cats and other assorted animals.  Specifically, she has owned 3 Amazon parrots, 2 parakeets, 2 cockatiels, a Collie, a turtle, and both saltwater and freshwater fish.  As a kid she was fascinated with animals, especially reptiles, spiders, and dangerous pets, and considered becoming a veterinarian.  She is currently a married mother to two teenagers and an 8 month old kitten, and has lived in Crystal Lake for 15 years.  The adorable photo of "Smokey" the cat, at the top of the blog, is hers.


Coming Soon...

We will be hiring a backup pet sitter and/or dog walker soon!  If you know someone who might be interested in a very flexible, small part-time job, and who fits the qualifications above, be sure to let them know.  Within the next few weeks, I hope to update my website with information about joining the Bright Star Pet Services team.


Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Canine Influenza: How Can You Protect Your Dogs?

Have you heard the news that Canine Influenza has infected dogs in Chicagoland with record numbers this Spring?  Here's what you need to know about this disease.

Nope, they aren't sick.... Just comfortable at home!
Cause and Symptoms
First, canine flu is caused by a virus that attacks a dog's respiratory system.  In most (mild) cases, the dog will have a cough which can last from 10 to 30 days.  It might be confused with kennel cough, but usually includes additional symptoms:  lethargy, decreased appetite, and possibly a fever.  The dog may also develop a snotty nose from secondary infection.  In the severe form, dogs develop a high fever of 104-106 degrees F, and have difficulty breathing due to pneumonia or inflammation in their lungs.


Try to avoid walking where many other dogs--
and their germs-- frequently go!
Transmission to other dogs
The virus is highly contagious, and just like human influenza, it is passed through respiratory droplets either directly from dog-to-dog, or from contact with inanimate objects. Dogs are most contagious even before they start to show symptoms. The virus can survive on hard surfaces for up to 48 hours, on clothing for 24 hours, and on your hands up to 12 hours.  It is inactivated by ordinary disinfectants such as diluted bleach (30:1), laundry detergent at normal laundry temperatures, alcohol-based hand sanitizers, or appropriate hand-washing.  Ongoing sanitation procedures need to be maintained in any areas where dogs might be congregating, such as kennels, groomers, day cares, or veterinary offices.   Fortunately, this virus has not been found to cause illness in humans.

How dangerous is it?  How is it treated?
Treatment for any viral disease is mostly supportive, including providing fluids, if needed, and antibiotics for any secondary bacterial infection.  There is no magic cure for the influenza virus. There is a vaccine, but it requires two shots, given 2-4 weeks apart, before it takes hold-- and even then, it will only reduce the severity of illness, not eliminate it completely.  The good news is that most dogs recover fully from the illness; the terrible news is that some dogs might die from pneumonia or secondary infection if they are not treated for it.

Can we avoid it?
Although there are no guaranteed ways to avoid the canine flu, your dog will be less likely infected if he is not exposed to sick dogs or items in the environment of sick dogs.  Since dogs are contagious even before showing symptoms, if you are concerned about infection you may want to keep your dog away from doggie daycare, groomers, training centers, dog parks, or kennels until the epidemic slows down.

Professional dog walkers or pet sitters can provide your dog with love, attention and exercise without the risk of contamination, provided they wash hands between houses and change clothes if visiting a dog who was sick or coughing.

Also, to prevent the spread of disease: if your dog is sick or isn't acting normally, call your veterinarian and keep the dog isolated from other dogs.  Be sure to let any care providers know if your dog is coughing, or might be sick.  Click on the infographic to see a larger picture.

http://www.chicagonow.com/steve-dales-pet-world/files/2015/03/canine-influenza-virus-Chicago-veterianry-emergency-special-center-Steve-Dale1.jpg

Sources:
https://www.avma.org/KB/Resources/FAQs/Pages/Control-of-Canine-Influenza-in-Dogs.aspx
http://danadavet.com/canine-influenza-outbreak.html
http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/canine-flu-symptoms-treatment
http://www.cdc.gov/flu/canine/
R

Friday, December 5, 2014

An Introduction to Rally-O

An example of an AKC Rally sign

Rally-O is a growing dog sport that offers a fun challenge to pet dog owners who enjoy competition.  Basic obedience skills provide the foundation for competing in this sport.  Rally-O helps owners develop teamwork with their dog while reinforcing basic and advanced obedience maneuvers.


Each Rally-O course is an obedience obstacle course.  Specific obedience-style exercises are written on signs and placed in varying sequences for the team (dog and handler) to negotiate. Participants must complete the obedience exercise at each station before moving on to the next.  Each team is scored on its performance at each station (or rather, marked down for lack of performance...!)  From a maximum score of 200, teams can “qualify”  and receive a ribbon if they earn 170 points or more, and after three qualifying scores, they will earn a Rally-O title that can be written with the dog’s name.  For instance, my dog Phoebe has earned her AKC Rally Novice title and her official name is now Tanglewood’s Star Bright, R.N. (Rally Novice).

An example of an UKC Rally sign
The maneuvers in Rally-O can range from simple heeling exercises (heeling with your dog beside you, you halt and the dog sits) to much more complicated.  To a beginner, the advanced exercises might sound overwhelming, but you and your dog learn together, step-by-step.  Everyone starts with the basics like having your dog heeling next to you, making left and right turns, learning how to do an “about turn” with the dog staying in heeling position, and learning how to sit and down in heel position.  Gradually you learn more complicated steps like weaving around traffic cones, having your dog “stay” in a sit while you walk around him, or having him sit squarely in front of you when you call him to “front” from heeling.

Once you are ready to move on to the advanced and excellent courses, there are difficult and fun new challenges to master.  At the advanced levels, everything is done off-leash.   An example of one of the most advanced exercises: while heeling with your dog beside you, you signal the dog to stop in a stand-stay while you walk 6 feet away,  command your dog to sit in place, command your dog to come straight and sit again directly in front of you, and finally command your dog to return to heel position, sitting next to your side, before starting on to the next exercise.  The advanced levels always have easier Novice signs mixed in with more difficult signs.  This reinforces what you have already learned, and helps you and your dog feel like you can accomplish something even if you have trouble with a station or two.   

Another exciting challenge with advanced rally courses is that they include one or two jumps for the dogs to jump over while the handler walks alongside.  Some dogs are scared of the strange-looking  jumps at first, but when they learn what they are, and how to do them, almost all dogs enjoy the jumps. In fact, because advanced dogs are off-leash, sometimes a dog gets so excited when he sees a jump on course that he leaves the handler to go jump!

This video shows my dog Atlas and I performing an 
Advanced Rally course. 

Some of the advanced rally stations can be almost diabolical, like having your dog heel in a figure-8 pattern around two cones while tempting bowls of food or toys are on the floor.  (Not all venues offer this insane challenge).  Most new handlers look at these stations and think, “Oh, my dog could never do that!”  With practice, even the most unruly food-hounds can be taught to ignore the food bowls.  Honest!  There is nothing that compares to the realization that you taught your dog to happily perform these complicated maneuvers.

There are several venues that offer titles in Rally-O, with the most common being AKC, UKC, and World Cynosport.  Each venue has some differences that make its Rally-O courses unique.

Here are some helpful websites for further information. (World Cynosport Rally used to be run by APDT; thus some websites still refer to APDT rally.  Make sure to check with Cynosport to get the most up-to-date info on the former APDT signs).

http://www.rallydogs.com -- World Cynosport Rally

http://rally.canissapiens.com/  --AKC and APDT signs, descriptions, and mini cards to print out


http://www.ukcdogs.com/res/pdf/2011RallyRulebook.pdf -- UKC rally rules


Thursday, November 27, 2014

Five Requirements for Healthy Cats

For cat owners, cats are more than just pets. In exchange for a warm place to sleep and a little food, they reward us with frequent entertainment, unconditional love, and teach us how to slow down and be in the moment (especially when they are sitting on our laps!)

"No Ma'am, I don't think this
qualifies as a safe retreat!"
In return, we open up our homes and wallets to provide them the very best life we can.  The American Association of Feline Practitioners (AAFP) lists five basic pillars for a healthy feline environment.  If any of these requirements are missing, it can cause stress and behavioral problems for the feline members of our families. Here is a breakdown of the five requirements:


1.) A Safe Retreat

Cats need to have a retreat where they can go to feel protected, especially if there are dogs, kids, or other cats that might not always be friendly to the kitty.  In general, cats want a safe place with at least 2 ways to exit. Some cats like the safety of height, and prefer a kitty perch on a windowsill or a tall cat tree.  Others prefer a more enclosed area such as under a bed or in a box.  Whatever the choice, try to have as many safe retreats as you have cats in your house.


2.) Separate, individual resources for food and water, litter boxes, sleep and play areas

Anyone who has ever been in a multi-cat household knows how impossible it is to feed kitties in separate bowls. Inevitably one will want to check out the other's dish, and they both end up eating out of each other's bowls.  That's fine, but even kitties that are best friends sometimes need a little space!  The important thing is that there are options, so that each of these environmental resources are available to the kitty when needed.  The general guideline for litter boxes is to have as many boxes as you have cats, plus one.  If one litter box is being used, or perhaps a feeding dish is blocked off for the moment, the cat can find another one if needed.


3.)  Play opportunities

We all love watching cats play, and play is crucial to their health and well-being.   Predatory toys, such as fake furry mice or fishing poles, allow cats to practice their natural hunting skills and also encourage human interaction and bonding.   Puzzle toys can help a cat's mental acuity and require that kitty works harder for its food.  


4.) Consistent, positive human interaction

Each cat is different in how much human interaction they desire, but maintaining a dependable and beneficial presence in a cat's life will always be good for them.  Never force your cat to interact with you-- they will tell you when they have had enough.


5.) Respecting a cat's sense of smell

Felines rely on their exceptional sense of smell, and use it to scent-mark certain areas and things.  If a cat is having trouble adjusting to something new, try not to clean any scent-markings off.  Felines also produce pheromones which help them feel more calm, and many pet stores now sell a plug-in pheromone diffuser that can help cat  households alleviate stress.  Notice whether highly scented products like candles, cleaning products or air fresheners seem to bother your cat.  Finally, cat litters have differing amounts of air fresheners, but a highly scented litter might cause a cat to find other areas to relieve himself.  

Being aware of these requirements allows us to enjoy our pets to the fullest, making their lives and our own happier and more meaningful!

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Interactive Puzzle Toys for Dogs

On a blustery September Sunday afternoon, while others were watching football, I joined six other handlers with their dogs to try out various interactive dog toys.  We had a range of different sizes and breeds of dogs, including Italian greyhounds, Shelties, Giant schnauzers, German shorthaired pointers (GSP), Golden Retrievers, Cairn terriers, and an Afghan hound!  Each handler brought a different toy for everyone to test, and we each brought kibbles or treats for our individual dogs.  I’ll show which toys we tested, and important information we discovered about each one.
PetSafe Rip'n'Tug Lotus Ball
Many owners already had some experience with PetSafe’s Rip’N’Tug Lotus ball. Some owners like to play fetch-- the dog receives a treat from the ball when he/she brings it back to the owner.  Others toss the toy and let their dog rip it open for an instant reward.  Everybody agreed that this is never a toy to leave alone with the dog –it would be destroyed quickly.
The toys that seemed to be easiest for the dogs to figure out were the ones that only need pushing – the Omega Tricky Treat ball, Buster cube, and Hol-ee Treat Ball.  The toys should provide frequent treats initially to keep the dogs motivated, but once the dogs understand the game they can be very persistent in working for even one last piece of kibble.  The concern about these toys was that some of the dogs would pick up and toss the toy (these were the dogs that also liked chewing or mouthing the ball).  
Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball
The Omega Paw is a softer, plastic ball and adjusts its own payout because as the cookie/kibble inside it gets low, less comes out for the dog.  One drawback is the Omega ball can be chewed through if your dog is not satisfied with just the kibble inside.  One benefit of the Omega ball is that the soft plastic will not scratch up wooden floors or bang up the wall, nor can a dog break it by throwing it down the stairs.  
Buster Cube


Yes, apparently a GSP figured out how to throw the Buster Cube down the stairs to break it open!  One benefit to the Buster cube is that the payout can be adjusted manually and the dog cannot bite through the hard plastic.  Caution: both the Omega Ball and the Buster Cube aren’t supposed to get wet, as mildew will form on the inside and cannot be cleaned.  It was suggested to use only dry cookies/kibble on the inside and a moist towel for cleaning the outside.  
JW Hol-ee Treat Ball

The JW Hol-ee Treat Ball is slightly different because it has a soft, flexible outer shell and a hard plastic inner container where treats can be poured through the screw-on lid.  Treats can be taken out fairly easily if you need to clean the ball, and the soft outer ball means the dog won’t be making as much noise or damaging your floors if they toss it around a little.  Although it is a similar idea as the ones above, a much smaller treat compartment means that you will have to refill it more often.

Trixie Chess
Aikiou Interactive Feeder
The Trixie Chess game and other toys where the cookie was hidden by a slide were much more challenging for dogs that didn’t want to use their paw or wouldn’t bite onto the toy.  The Aikiou feeder looks like a giant dog paw, with a sliding door over two compartments on each toe, and a rotating center door which covers multiple treat areas.  Some of the smaller dogs had trouble with the depth of the compartments, and found the slippery plastic  too difficult for them to get the treats.   The benefit of plastic toy games and containers is that they can easily be washed.  I’m not sure about the Trixie, but the Aikiou toy is dishwasher safe.
Ethical Pet Seek-a-Treat Shuffle Bone Puzzle
Nina Ottosson Dog Tornado
Another variety of slider/compartment toys were wooden toy puzzles like the Ethical Pet Seek-a-Treat Shuffle Bone Puzzle.  Some of the big dogs had difficulty maneuvering the sliders.  They quickly got frustrated and either gave up or tried to chew on the wood.  They are definitely not as easy to clean, and little splits of pressed wood started cracking off almost immediately.  The Nina Ottoson Dog Tornado toy was much easier for dogs to spin for treats, clearly a higher quality of wood, and didn’t end up with any teeth marks on it.
Yuppy Puppy Dog Treat Machine
The Yuppy Puppy Dog Treat machine was the most difficult for all the dogs to understand.  The dog is supposed to press on the end of the bone-shaped lever to produce a payout of treats from the clear dome.  This is a very heavy and sturdy toy, but the Giant schnauzer seemed intent on destroying it and knocking it all over to get at the goodies inside!  We all agreed this particular toy is best taught with shaping and was not going to be learned by the dog alone.  When practicing with this, sometimes the dog could get a huge payout (1/2 cup of kibble-sized treats) and sometimes only one or two kibbles.   
Our suggestion is: whatever toy you are considering, please think about what your dog enjoys best: does your dog prefer using his nose or his paws? Is it a toy where the dog can be let safely alone for a small while?  How much time do you have to teach the toy (some are faster than others)?   Finally, consider your dog’s size relative to the toy --- for instance, some dog’s noses are just not long enough to get to the bottom of the compartments.  
Have you ever bought any interactive toys for your dog? Were there any surprises--- like your dog chewed through it, or it was too difficult for your dog to figure out, or cleaning it was a nightmare? Let me know in the comments below!

Monday, October 27, 2014

Basic Dog Training: Discipline, treats, or both?

What Methods Should I Use to Train My Dog?

Recently I was asked by a client the best way to start training a new dog.  He had trained a dog years ago using leash corrections, but his wife wanted him to use positive reinforcement training.  He was hesitant to use treats with his dog, as he didn't want his dog getting spoiled and fat, but his wife didn't want him using a choke collar or strong leash corrections.  He asked what I would recommend.

I could certainly relate to this dilemma!  When I started training my 95-lb. Giant schnauzer, Atlas, I was taught to use treats occasionally to reward good behavior. When correcting bad behavior, I was taught to tug on the collar or grunt a guttural-sounding "uh-uh." In terms of behavioral psychology, the treats are considered a reinforcement because they increase the likelihood that a behavior will occur in the future.  Likewise, the collar correction and "No" are considered punishment, because they decrease the likelihood of that behavior happening in the future. Punishment can be either a mild correction, like a tug on the collar, or a much harder correction, like a beating or a powerful electric shock.  In this article I refer to mild corrections, but  since "punishment" has such bad connotations in some people's minds, I will refer to it as "discipline."  

(For the sake of simplicity I'm not covering the positive and negative quadrants of reinforcement and punishment.)

Giant schnauzer smiling and sitting
"But he KNOWS how to sit!"
Let's start with a common example: when Atlas was heeling and didn't sit, I would jerk on the leash or tap him on the butt.  He learned to sit most of the time, but I still had to provide corrections every once in a while.  Sometimes I rewarded him with a treat if he sat nicely, but the reward didn't seem to help him sit more**.  If I didn't correct him the first time he didn't sit, it was guaranteed the next time he wouldn't sit.  Initially I thought he was being stubborn, or trying to see what he could get away with, so I escalated with a more firm tap or harder jerk on the leash. This is one of the dangers of punishment: if it is mild and doesn't stop the behavior completely, training escalates with harsher punishments.  If it is harsh enough to stop the behavior completely, then it might be considered abuse. 

Over time, the more I worked with him and disciplined him, I realized that Atlas really resented my demands and did not want to sit for me.  In addition, I wondered if he had a spinal problem that was making it difficult for him to sit.  I decided I wasn't going to dole out harsh punishments when I wasn't sure he could safely and comfortably do what I was asking.  At this point, obedience training was no longer fun for either of us, and wasn't necessary for any other reason, so I completely quit.

Giant schnauzer pulling red cart
This is my dog Phoebe
pulling her cart!
Fortunately, I took a clicker-training class and taught him silly stuff, just for fun.  I attended a seminar to teach him to pull a cart, and the instructor had us using small, meaty pieces of food as rewards for approaching the cart, then walking next to the cart, then letting the cart bump the dog.  Before I knew it I could hook Atlas into the cart and he was happily pulling it around.  He loved doing it. You could see his eyes shine with delight when I pulled the cart out. It might have started as a love for the food I was giving him, but I learned a valuable lesson:  the enthusiasm your dog shows when trained with food, if you do it properly, will transfer to enthusiasm towards the behaviors you are training. 

Scientific studies of dog training show that dogs learn better using positive reinforcement methods, and food is one of the most basic, primal reinforcers that almost every dog values. Everyone knows how persistent dogs are when they want something.  If you train properly with food (as a reward and not a bribe) the dog learns that he won't always get a treat for good behavior, but he will keep trying because sometimes he gets a treat.  That is the benefit of positive reinforcement training:  the dog will continue to try.

It goes deeper than that, though.  If the dog is trained with discipline, he will come to respect discipline.  Like a Marine who makes his bed every day in the barracks, he will do what he must to avoid dressing-down by the Sergeant.  In this case, the behavior is leaving a messy bed, the punishment is getting yelled at, and the desired consequence is the Marine no longer leaves a messy bed. One of the drawbacks of punishment is the authority must be able to enforce demands. Once the Marine is out of the barracks, is he going to leave a messy bed again?  The answer depends on whether the Marine thinks making the bed is worthwhile.  Discipline is only effective as long as someone stronger is there to enforce it.   

German shepherd dog heeling
Hoss is demonstrating a focused "Heel" exercise.
For dogs, almost any behavior can be taught, and it doesn't require a drill sergeant. With positive reinforcement, there is more teaching right from the start.  For example, in loose-leash walking, the dog has to be taught the right way to do things, exactly what you want him to do.  Instead of "don't pull", you have to teach him, "I want you to stay where you can see me at all times, by my left side, on walks." He learns he is correct because you reward him, and he learns he is wrong when he doesn't get a reward. In the beginning you have to reward very frequently to let the dog know he is doing it right and encourage him to keep working. This is one of the drawbacks of positive reinforcement training:  more training is required at the start.  Another drawback is that it requires a lot of treats, although you can use some of your dog's food, or cut down on your dog's daily meals, to counterbalance the treats given.

A common assumption about positive reinforcement training is that the dog will only work for treats. It happens fairly often: while initially you lure a dog into position using food, if you don't fade the lure quickly it turns into a bribe. Once the dog learns how to work for bribes, he will only work if a treat is in sight.  This develops when an inexperienced trainer doesn't reward appropriately, anticipates giving the reward, or gets a treat ready before the dog has started the behavior.  Fortunately the dog can be easily re-trained using better timing: unfortunately, it is harder to re-train the trainer!
Two giant schnauzer dogs pulling on leashes
Following 170 lbs. of dog before
they learned loose-leash walking--
difficult at best!

For loose-leash walking, the benefit of positive reinforcement training, even though it requires more work in the beginning, is many years of enjoyment with your dog while occasionally reinforcing with treats.  Compare that to discipline training, where you must be physically able to restrain the dog, and periodically discipline him to remind him what you want.
  
Many trainers use a combination of these two teaching methods, generally using punishment when the dog understands but isn't performing correctly.  Most people agree it is unfair or abusive for a trainer to punish a dog that doesn't understand the behavior yet.  

The issue then becomes: how do you know your dog understands what you are asking of him? Dogs do not generalize behaviors well: learning to "sit" in the kitchen does not mean he understands "sit" in the living room.  Even after he learn how to sit throughout the house, taking him to a new environment, with extra distractions, may result in him not deciphering your command, "Sit".  Dogs do learn quickly with repetition, so teaching a dog in a new location is faster, and eventually he can generalize the behavior with almost any distraction. But far too often I hear my students say with frustration, "He knows how to do this!"... when the dog is showing me that he does not understand.  

As a trainer and dog advocate, unless I am 100% sure the dog understands the behavior, I will presume the dog is trying his best but just doesn't understand, and teach him again. Honestly, I cannot read dogs' minds, so I always prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt. Sometimes it is obvious the dog is confused, and other times I can see a distraction pulling him away, but I can say with certainty that I have never, ever regretted giving the dog the chance to re-learn instead of punishing him.

Positive Reinforcement:  Pros:

  • Dog wants to learn, and the enthusiasm transfers to the behavior
  • No physical intimidation is necessary
  • Any size and strength of human can teach the dog
  • Builds a great relationship with the dog
  • Encourages the dog to keep trying behaviors
  • You have to feed the dog anyway, why not train him at the same time?

Positive Reinforcement:  Cons:

  • Trainer needs good timing and skill, or else dog will not work without treats
  • Managing the dog on leash with a handful of treats is more difficult 
  • It takes more time to teach the dog, at the beginning
  • Dogs not trained to take treats gently can cause bloodshed
  • Dogs can get fat if daily meals are not adjusted
  • If the dog doesn't value the reinforcer, the behavior will not increase
  • Requires planning and preparation to have treats available when needed
  • Can be messy, both with treats and dog slobber
Punishment:  Pros:
  • Can be faster than positive reinforcement
  • A single strong punishment can stop a behavior for a very long time
  • Does not require any treats
  • Does not require planning ahead
Punishment:  Cons:
  • Less precise in creating behaviors (you are telling the dog what you don't want, but not what you do want)
  • A mild correction frequently ends up escalating to stronger punishment
  • A strong punishment can be considered abusive
  • Dogs can react unpredictably to punishment and might become fearful or aggressive
  • Dogs can associate you with the punishment and it undermines a trusting relationship
  • Punishment discourages the dog from trying new behaviors
  • Punishment is only effective as long as someone stronger is there to enforce it
Two giant schnauzers sitting, looking at owner
Guess which hand the treats are in?
In the end, it's up to you to create the relationship you want with your dog.  I have found the best way to do this is with positive reinforcement, and that is what I encourage my clients to do with their dogs, too.  A good trainer will set you on the road to success by teaching you how to use a clicker, how to get your dog on a variable schedule of reinforcements, and how to prevent or re-train undesired behavior.

Have I left out any important pros or cons about each method of training?  What has been your experience?  Let me know in the comments below!

** As far as rewarding Atlas when he sat, there were numerous reasons why I was not successfully increasing that behavior. Mostly it was due to was my lack of timing and skill as a trainer!  Fortunately, both have improved significantly with practice and experience.