Monday, October 27, 2014

Basic Dog Training: Discipline, treats, or both?

What Methods Should I Use to Train My Dog?

Recently I was asked by a client the best way to start training a new dog.  He had trained a dog years ago using leash corrections, but his wife wanted him to use positive reinforcement training.  He was hesitant to use treats with his dog, as he didn't want his dog getting spoiled and fat, but his wife didn't want him using a choke collar or strong leash corrections.  He asked what I would recommend.

I could certainly relate to this dilemma!  When I started training my 95-lb. Giant schnauzer, Atlas, I was taught to use treats occasionally to reward good behavior. When correcting bad behavior, I was taught to tug on the collar or grunt a guttural-sounding "uh-uh." In terms of behavioral psychology, the treats are considered a reinforcement because they increase the likelihood that a behavior will occur in the future.  Likewise, the collar correction and "No" are considered punishment, because they decrease the likelihood of that behavior happening in the future. Punishment can be either a mild correction, like a tug on the collar, or a much harder correction, like a beating or a powerful electric shock.  In this article I refer to mild corrections, but  since "punishment" has such bad connotations in some people's minds, I will refer to it as "discipline."  

(For the sake of simplicity I'm not covering the positive and negative quadrants of reinforcement and punishment.)

Giant schnauzer smiling and sitting
"But he KNOWS how to sit!"
Let's start with a common example: when Atlas was heeling and didn't sit, I would jerk on the leash or tap him on the butt.  He learned to sit most of the time, but I still had to provide corrections every once in a while.  Sometimes I rewarded him with a treat if he sat nicely, but the reward didn't seem to help him sit more**.  If I didn't correct him the first time he didn't sit, it was guaranteed the next time he wouldn't sit.  Initially I thought he was being stubborn, or trying to see what he could get away with, so I escalated with a more firm tap or harder jerk on the leash. This is one of the dangers of punishment: if it is mild and doesn't stop the behavior completely, training escalates with harsher punishments.  If it is harsh enough to stop the behavior completely, then it might be considered abuse. 

Over time, the more I worked with him and disciplined him, I realized that Atlas really resented my demands and did not want to sit for me.  In addition, I wondered if he had a spinal problem that was making it difficult for him to sit.  I decided I wasn't going to dole out harsh punishments when I wasn't sure he could safely and comfortably do what I was asking.  At this point, obedience training was no longer fun for either of us, and wasn't necessary for any other reason, so I completely quit.

Giant schnauzer pulling red cart
This is my dog Phoebe
pulling her cart!
Fortunately, I took a clicker-training class and taught him silly stuff, just for fun.  I attended a seminar to teach him to pull a cart, and the instructor had us using small, meaty pieces of food as rewards for approaching the cart, then walking next to the cart, then letting the cart bump the dog.  Before I knew it I could hook Atlas into the cart and he was happily pulling it around.  He loved doing it. You could see his eyes shine with delight when I pulled the cart out. It might have started as a love for the food I was giving him, but I learned a valuable lesson:  the enthusiasm your dog shows when trained with food, if you do it properly, will transfer to enthusiasm towards the behaviors you are training. 

Scientific studies of dog training show that dogs learn better using positive reinforcement methods, and food is one of the most basic, primal reinforcers that almost every dog values. Everyone knows how persistent dogs are when they want something.  If you train properly with food (as a reward and not a bribe) the dog learns that he won't always get a treat for good behavior, but he will keep trying because sometimes he gets a treat.  That is the benefit of positive reinforcement training:  the dog will continue to try.

It goes deeper than that, though.  If the dog is trained with discipline, he will come to respect discipline.  Like a Marine who makes his bed every day in the barracks, he will do what he must to avoid dressing-down by the Sergeant.  In this case, the behavior is leaving a messy bed, the punishment is getting yelled at, and the desired consequence is the Marine no longer leaves a messy bed. One of the drawbacks of punishment is the authority must be able to enforce demands. Once the Marine is out of the barracks, is he going to leave a messy bed again?  The answer depends on whether the Marine thinks making the bed is worthwhile.  Discipline is only effective as long as someone stronger is there to enforce it.   

German shepherd dog heeling
Hoss is demonstrating a focused "Heel" exercise.
For dogs, almost any behavior can be taught, and it doesn't require a drill sergeant. With positive reinforcement, there is more teaching right from the start.  For example, in loose-leash walking, the dog has to be taught the right way to do things, exactly what you want him to do.  Instead of "don't pull", you have to teach him, "I want you to stay where you can see me at all times, by my left side, on walks." He learns he is correct because you reward him, and he learns he is wrong when he doesn't get a reward. In the beginning you have to reward very frequently to let the dog know he is doing it right and encourage him to keep working. This is one of the drawbacks of positive reinforcement training:  more training is required at the start.  Another drawback is that it requires a lot of treats, although you can use some of your dog's food, or cut down on your dog's daily meals, to counterbalance the treats given.

A common assumption about positive reinforcement training is that the dog will only work for treats. It happens fairly often: while initially you lure a dog into position using food, if you don't fade the lure quickly it turns into a bribe. Once the dog learns how to work for bribes, he will only work if a treat is in sight.  This develops when an inexperienced trainer doesn't reward appropriately, anticipates giving the reward, or gets a treat ready before the dog has started the behavior.  Fortunately the dog can be easily re-trained using better timing: unfortunately, it is harder to re-train the trainer!
Two giant schnauzer dogs pulling on leashes
Following 170 lbs. of dog before
they learned loose-leash walking--
difficult at best!

For loose-leash walking, the benefit of positive reinforcement training, even though it requires more work in the beginning, is many years of enjoyment with your dog while occasionally reinforcing with treats.  Compare that to discipline training, where you must be physically able to restrain the dog, and periodically discipline him to remind him what you want.
  
Many trainers use a combination of these two teaching methods, generally using punishment when the dog understands but isn't performing correctly.  Most people agree it is unfair or abusive for a trainer to punish a dog that doesn't understand the behavior yet.  

The issue then becomes: how do you know your dog understands what you are asking of him? Dogs do not generalize behaviors well: learning to "sit" in the kitchen does not mean he understands "sit" in the living room.  Even after he learn how to sit throughout the house, taking him to a new environment, with extra distractions, may result in him not deciphering your command, "Sit".  Dogs do learn quickly with repetition, so teaching a dog in a new location is faster, and eventually he can generalize the behavior with almost any distraction. But far too often I hear my students say with frustration, "He knows how to do this!"... when the dog is showing me that he does not understand.  

As a trainer and dog advocate, unless I am 100% sure the dog understands the behavior, I will presume the dog is trying his best but just doesn't understand, and teach him again. Honestly, I cannot read dogs' minds, so I always prefer to give him the benefit of the doubt. Sometimes it is obvious the dog is confused, and other times I can see a distraction pulling him away, but I can say with certainty that I have never, ever regretted giving the dog the chance to re-learn instead of punishing him.

Positive Reinforcement:  Pros:

  • Dog wants to learn, and the enthusiasm transfers to the behavior
  • No physical intimidation is necessary
  • Any size and strength of human can teach the dog
  • Builds a great relationship with the dog
  • Encourages the dog to keep trying behaviors
  • You have to feed the dog anyway, why not train him at the same time?

Positive Reinforcement:  Cons:

  • Trainer needs good timing and skill, or else dog will not work without treats
  • Managing the dog on leash with a handful of treats is more difficult 
  • It takes more time to teach the dog, at the beginning
  • Dogs not trained to take treats gently can cause bloodshed
  • Dogs can get fat if daily meals are not adjusted
  • If the dog doesn't value the reinforcer, the behavior will not increase
  • Requires planning and preparation to have treats available when needed
  • Can be messy, both with treats and dog slobber
Punishment:  Pros:
  • Can be faster than positive reinforcement
  • A single strong punishment can stop a behavior for a very long time
  • Does not require any treats
  • Does not require planning ahead
Punishment:  Cons:
  • Less precise in creating behaviors (you are telling the dog what you don't want, but not what you do want)
  • A mild correction frequently ends up escalating to stronger punishment
  • A strong punishment can be considered abusive
  • Dogs can react unpredictably to punishment and might become fearful or aggressive
  • Dogs can associate you with the punishment and it undermines a trusting relationship
  • Punishment discourages the dog from trying new behaviors
  • Punishment is only effective as long as someone stronger is there to enforce it
Two giant schnauzers sitting, looking at owner
Guess which hand the treats are in?
In the end, it's up to you to create the relationship you want with your dog.  I have found the best way to do this is with positive reinforcement, and that is what I encourage my clients to do with their dogs, too.  A good trainer will set you on the road to success by teaching you how to use a clicker, how to get your dog on a variable schedule of reinforcements, and how to prevent or re-train undesired behavior.

Have I left out any important pros or cons about each method of training?  What has been your experience?  Let me know in the comments below!

** As far as rewarding Atlas when he sat, there were numerous reasons why I was not successfully increasing that behavior. Mostly it was due to was my lack of timing and skill as a trainer!  Fortunately, both have improved significantly with practice and experience.


Thursday, October 23, 2014

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Monday, October 13, 2014

Healthy Foundations for Dogs: Feeding Your Dog on a Schedule

Healthy Foundations for Dogs: 
Feeding Your Dog on a Schedule

Puggle is ready for mealtime!
If I could teach one rule to everyone with a dog, it would be this: feed your dog a measured amount of food on a regular schedule. In other words, do not leave dog food out at all times.   
I used to free-feed my mini schnauzer, who looked like a sausage with legs. When I switched to measuring food twice a day, I discovered that it was just as easy as leaving food out all the time. My tubby dog gradually lost the extra pounds. Regular feeding had huge benefits for my dog’s health, helped strengthen our relationship, and set me up for success with obedience training.
There are a variety of health benefits of regular mealtimes: 

·         For puppies that are learning housetraining, regular feeding helps develop a predictable elimination schedule.
Lack of appetite can be from overeating,
or a sign of serious health issues.
·         By feeding on a regular schedule you can monitor exactly how much your dog is eating. You can measure and adjust the amount of food so you don’t end up with an overweight dog.  
·         If your dog is not enthusiastic about meals, you might realize you have been feeding too much, or the food doesn’t agree with him. 
·         You will notice immediately if your dog suddenly stops eating or eliminating normally, which is often the very first indication of a health problem. 
 Feeding also helps strengthen the relationship between you and your dog. This isn’t about “dominance,” which is a disproved theory of canine behavior, but focuses on leadership. Feeding routines are a natural part of canine social structure. The leader of the family pack is the dog who gets to eat first, and who gets to choose the best pieces of food. You need to be that leader! You aren’t a dog (believe me, your dog knows the difference) but every puppy learns to respect the provider of the food.

Each owner can determine what are
appropriate manners in their household.
Scheduled mealtimes make a world of difference helping you teach manners to your dog.  The gentle, positive method of teaching dogs relies heavily on using food as a motivator and reward. Rewards make learning easier and provide motivation for the next lesson.  Food rewards make sense because every animal instinctively will work for food.  Food rewards can be used to teach basic manners, advanced obedience, or tricks and silly games.  In fact, scientific studies have proven that animals prefer to work for food rather than just having it given to them. 
Healthy dogs will act hungry
almost all the time!
If food is constantly available to the dog, it has diminished value as a training tool.   You will need something else to offer such as treats, attention, or a favorite toy.  With alternative rewards, there will be times your dog won’t be interested in learning because he doesn’t value the rewards you offer at that moment.

A common objection to feeding a measured amount of food is: “My dog is hungry all the time!”  True, your dog might act like he is hungry all the time. Dogs are supposed to act that way. If you are concerned about your dog’s weight, please check with your veterinarian to find out what an appropriate weight should be, and feed your dog according to what he should weigh.

          Another frequent concern is: “If I cut down on his food, he will beg at the dinner table!” An unruly dog might beg at supper time, or steal food from kids at the table. These are behaviors that can be managed through training or by controlling access to the dinner table. To control access, you could put your dog in a crate during mealtimes, or keep him in a different room. Would you rather deal with the health issues associated with obesity, including a shortened lifespan, or train your dog not to beg at the table? 

           To summarize, feeding your dog a measured amount of food at mealtimes is the best way to ensure his health and well-being. Scheduled mealtimes are not any more difficult than keeping your dog’s bowl full all the time. It helps him maintain a normal weight and tips you off to any developing medical issues. It establishes your leadership while cultivating a strong, healthy relationship. It allows you to harness your dog’s natural motivation for learning and performing good behavior. This one easy routine can be utilized by anyone to create a solid foundation for a happy, healthy dog.

Friday, October 3, 2014

Be Prepared!


The Boy Scout motto, “Be Prepared” is a useful reminder when it comes to our pets.

Recently I found out about the untimely death of veterinarian and positive dog-training advocate, Dr. Sophia Yin.  Her website, www.drsophiayin.com has many wonderful short video clips that I recommend to owners when they have issues with their dogs. As sad as I was to hear of Dr. Yin’s unexpected passing, I also worry what will happen to her beloved dog Jonesy and her Bengal cat, both of which she used to show us a better way to train our animals. To us, pets are family, but to many, they are simply another homeless dog or cat in a rescue situation.

It is a difficult topic to think about, but regardless of your age or situation in life, it is crucial that you prepare for your own possible death or disability. Have a plan for your animals in the event you cannot take care of them any longer, and let your family and friends know what you want. You may not be able to bequeath $20,000 for the perpetual care of Fluffy until she passes, but at the very least, think about who would be willing to take on the care of your pets, and ask that person if they will serve as your pet’s guardian.

Illness: Another aspect of being prepared is to have a first aid kit at the ready for your pet. What items should a pet
first aid kit contain? Start with tweezers for removing ticks or splinters on your dog. A muzzle is an excellent idea—even the sweetest pet in the world can bite when in pain. You might want to consider adding a pillowcase to confine a cat needing treatment. Antiseptic swabs or wipes are helpful for cleaning wounds, and triple antibiotic ointment is just as useful for pets as humans. Petroleum jelly and a rectal thermometer are essential if you need to take your pet’s temperature. Go ahead and splurge on the $10 digital thermometer that reads in 2 seconds, because you really don’t want to hold a pet still for a 30 or 60-second thermometer readout. Gauze, tape, and blunt-end scissors are important items that work for humans as well as pets.

Getting your pet ready for the vet can be an ordeal in itself, so practicing some techniques at home will put you ahead of the game. For cats, you can build positive experiences with a cat carrier by leaving the carrier sitting out, and perhaps feeding kitty in the carrier or tossing treats inside. If the only time your cat goes in the carrier is to go to the vet, she’s going to run when she sees the carrier appear.

For dogs, they are often sensitive to having their paws (and sometimes their ears and mouths) touched, so practice a gentle touch of their paw and reward them with a tasty treat. As they grow accepting of this, up the ante by trying to pick up their paw and then offering the treat. Gradually make it more difficult, but never scary: squeezing their paw a little, isolating or holding the edge of one nail, and rubbing gently between their toes. Only practice three or four touches at a time, with a reward at each touch, and repeat frequently for best results. Believe me, both your pets and your vets will appreciate the time you spent desensitizing them to these things.

Finally, one more thing to consider is what you need if your pet ever gets lost. If you have indoor cats, and they try to sneak out the door, discourage that behavior with a spray bottle of water kept near the door, squirted at the cat if he approaches the open door.

For dogs, teach them to sit and wait at the door before being released. Your dogs, when outdoors, should always wear a tag that has an emergency phone number and address. If you already have an ID tag, are the number and address still current? A microchip is another excellent way to help your pet in the event he slips his collar or loses his tag. Make sure you have recent, clear photos of your pets if they do get lost. The faster you respond to a lost pet, the more likely you are to recover them.

As tough as it is to prepare for any of these situations, it is infinitely worse if you are not prepared. Hopefully this will give you a head start on keeping your pets safe and happy for the rest of their lives!